My little heart breaker dress

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I just finished this dress today.

I have discovered zips are not my friend and installing them is an absolute nightmare when dealing with tricky fabrics. I know that now and I will have to put in double practice time if I wish to succeed with them in the future.

This dress started life as two skirts, a fabric sample square and a vintage metal zip.

I started off using a pattern called the Danielle dress but I found the measurements to be strange, I forgot to print off the instructions and the resulting pattern pieces I had did not fit together properly…… I think it was just me not taking the time to read things properly and rushing a little bit……

Anyway, long story short I got fed up with the pattern not working out, so I used it as a base and made my own design from it to accommodate the pieces I had already cut.

The back of the skirt is the only part left in the original design. I shortened the back bodice and crafted that out of black and white printed silk. The front bodice I shaped with pleats and darts around the bust using red/pink and black snake skin printed PVC. The skirt fabric is 100% woven wool. I put three pleats in the front of the skirt and hemmed it at knee length. There is a vintage metal zip in the back of the bodice.

The resulting style is a highly structured bodice with an empire waist line descending into a soft A-Line flare.

Needs a good pressing and lining made up for the skirt and I am toying with the idea of belt loops and a specially made thin belt… but you get the gist.

Broken heart

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7 thoughts on “My little heart breaker dress

  1. Your dress is gorgeous. Belt would be nice, as you say, but i think it works well without one. I think you have a wonderful talent and a unique style. I’m going to keep watching you 🙂

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  2. It depends on the kind of zipper you are using. It seems you are using a kissing zipper finish. The best way to apply that type of zipper finish is closing your entire seam up and press open. Place zipper facing down onto the center of your seam and pin. Top stitch the zipper on the fabric as you did. When you are finish cut stitch seam open on correct side to allow zipper to open. Hope that helps. Cute dress by the way.

    http://eyesofacouturier.wordpress.com/

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    • Thanks for the message. That’s the technique I was trying to use but the silk kept moving all over the place. I have seen a hand baste technique using a glue stick to hold the zip on the back side of the closed seam… – I will try this next time. 🙂

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  3. Zippers aren’t so bad :). Yes, practice will help you get there. Do you hand baste them in first before sewing them on the machine? I know some people just pin them in and sew them, but I find putting them in solidly by hand first helps ensure they don’t get off while doing them on the machine.

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    • *sigh* I just pin them in and hope for the best, which never happens… I will have to try and find another way – to ‘hand baste before’ sounds promising I will see if I can find any Youtube tutorials as well…. I am determined to master the silly little zip! Thanks Capri.

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